If the Big Island of Hawaii had a baby with the Swiss Alps, it would be Iceland. Rolling hills full of sheep and horses. Farm houses scattered over black earth. Beautiful and abundant waterfalls cutting through the rocks. Hot springs. Mountains and fjords. Space. So much expansive space with mind blowing scenery.
For me, Iceland was a voyage not just a trip. It restored my soul. It balanced my inner equilibrium by putting in perspective the smallness of my anxieties and worries. It reminded me that nothing can replace the joy of being in nature.
Speaking of nature, it was hard to avoid the omnipresent Blue Lagoon. ice glaciers. and northern lights when planning this trip. One cannot pick up a guide book or watch a travel video for Iceland without these three being among the top reasons to visit Iceland. So much so that they beg the question – can you even say that you have been to Iceland without partaking in these?
Well. Yes.
Our trip involved none of the big three. Ari was too young to participate in glacier excursions. It was summer so the northern lights didn’t make frequent/easy appearance. The Blue Lagoon which most tourists visit while on their way to and from the airport, didn’t fit into our plans. And yet.
Another surprise was the food. I did not expect our meals to be the second star of our trip. Luckily we stumbled upon many restaurants that gave us that feeling of having eaten a life-changing meal.
The key to discovery and adventure in Iceland is making sure you rent a car and drive as much as possible. I am lucky to have Dev who planned a mind-blowing itinerary and did all the driving. I am simply the passenger and archivist.
We left on the evening of August 18 from Raleigh international airport. Our layover in JFK was extended by many hours due to a delay. We finally made it to Reykjavik on late morning of August 19, which I count as our first day in this 7-day itinerary. Our flight back was early on August 26 and therefore that day does not count as part of our travel itinerary.
Another thing to note is that Dev and I have been traveling with our kids since they were tiny. This to say that they have built a certain amount of stamina and resiliency. I consider us travelers not tourists. So keep that in mind as you read on.
Day 1: Arrive at Reykjavik International Airport. Get the rental car (all-wheel drive). Stop 1: Breakfast at Kokulist. Stop 2: Bridge Between Continents. Stop 3: Gunnuhver Hot Springs. Stop 4: hike on the volcano trail head at Grindavikurbaer. Stop 5: grocery shopping at Kronon in Selfoss (very cute town). Stop 6, check-in at our amazing Airbnb on a horse farm near Faxafoss. Dinner at home followed by hot-tub time.
Day 2: Breakfast at home. 1st stop, Seljalandsfoss Falls. 2nd stop, Ferry to Westman Islands for exploring and Puffins. 3rd stop, Westman Islands, hike up to Gomla Gatan and see the puffins (crazy cool birds in crazy cool scenery). Snacks and coffee at Vigtin Bakhus + Playground time. Short hike up Vestmannaeyjab aer and then down to the trampolin bubble at the public park. Beer and board games at The Brothers Brewery before taking the 6:30pm Ferry back. Long drive back to Airbnb. Restorative dinner at Eldsto Art Cafe on the way home (6 of us tightly snuggled at a small table – lamb stew, chickpea curry, burgers, fries).
Day 3: Breakfast at home. Stop 1: Drive to Gullfoss Waterfalls lookout. Stop 2: Strokkur Geyser + Geyser clothing store where I wanted to buy everything. Stop 3: Mind blowing dinner a Vinstofa Frioheima Winebar and Bistro. Stop 4: Back home. hot tub time before bed.
Day 4: Breakfast at home. Checkout of our Horse Farm Airbnb in Faxafoss. Stop 1: Bruarfoss Waterfall. Stop 2: Late lunch and ice cream at the amazing Efstidalur II (delicious soup with home made bread followed by ice cream made using their own dairymilk from cows we watched while having our meal; edible ice cream spoons; excellent playground and trampoline outside; EV chargers too; this place was just everything!). Stop 3: Rest stop at a gas station called Nesti Fersktog Fljott to get gas and candy. Stop 4: Drive to our Airbnb in the tiny town of Hofsos where our airbnb was my favorite ever airbnb. Stop 5: Check-in, unpack, change into swimgear to go chill at the Thermal pool in town overlooking the Fjord. Stop 6: Lovely dinner at the only restaurant in town called Etro Mathus. Stop 7: back at home to eat dessert and watch Father of the Bride before going to bed.
Day 5: Breakfast at home. Stop 1: Drive through the town of Akureyri (I would move here) with a stop at the botanical gardens and lunch at the magnificent Lyst located within (a couple of vintage stores are nearby for those who might want to indulge. We went to one real quick where I found a nice pair of shoes and coat). Stop 2: Fossholl Falls. Stop 3: Drive to Jardbodin for Myvatn Nature Baths (our replacement for Blue Lagoon). Stop 4: Godafoss Falls. Stop 4: Dinner at home. Nightcap and Father of the Bride II before going to bed.
Day 6: Breakfast at home. Checkout from the best little airbnb ever in Hofsos, Stop 1: Coffee at Dalasetur. Stop 2: Drive to Rekyavik with small stops along the way. Stop 3: Check-in at the Airbnb in the bustling downtown. Stop 4: Really good dinner at Mama Kitchen. Stop 5: Stroll around downtown, Hallgrimskirkja Church ( the swings outside the church were a big hit with the kids).
Day 7: Breakfast at home. Stop 1: Walk to Wake & Bake for more baked goods and more coffee. Stop 2: Walk along the water front in the direction of Harpa Concert Hall while eating the baked goods and stopping at Sun Voyager Sculptor. stop 3: Harpa Concert Hall (beautiful building which has a lovely music inspired play space inside that the kids loved. Stop 4: Delicious lunch at Ramen Momo. Stop 5: Walk through Landakot Playground ( with a seesaw), hide and seek at Centre with the Parliament building in the background, ending eventually a the Pond where the kids fed a lot of water fowl. Stop 6: Maeoragardour Playground with the loveliest yellow flowers. Stop 7: Dinner at Nony and Tony in the Food Hall. Stop 8: come home and pack for an early flight the next morning.
Reykjavik is very cosmopolitan, lively, and full of lovely shops including many vintage shops. I can’t stop thinking about the Raincoat Store where I wish I had bought a raincoat. The downtown is small and very walkable; no car needed. Most locals live in the suburbs of Reykjavik where there is a Costco (which we didn’t visit; shocking). We had a lovely time spending the 2 days in the city. Anything more would have been too much.
To visit only Reykjavik and say that one has been to Iceland is missing the whole point of Iceland.
I write these little guides mostly for myself, but I hope you found something valuable in it too.
When time allows, I want to tell you more about the food and our airbnbs. But until then, I hope what’s here will help you plan your very own trip. Or if you have already been, I’d love to hear about your favorites and reflections too so leave a comment or email me!
Talk soon!
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